Category Archives: Stories

Call to Prayer… Cough

11/10/14

I awake in the bright sunlight of Tangier, and step out onto the rooftop of our hostel.  Today’s call to prayer is just starting, and i hear the far-off echoing static of the grand megaphone turning on.  Then the sound of a giant, God-like, cough, the clearing of the man’s throat as he finds a catch in his voice preventing him from starting the call.  I can imagine the private drama behind the silent static from the speakers, the prayer caller drinking water, being pounded on the back, trying to find his holy feeling again.  I wonder what happens if he gets a cold?

When he does start at last, the rest of the city’s smaller mosques join in one by one in a cacophony of faith.  All the static and voices together sound remarkably like the mumbling of a busy city, with the overlapping tracks of traffic, long held out calls like impatient horns, the dissonance of many voices speaking as one.

Tangier Adventures

11/9/14

Even our train ride up to Tangier has already been an adventure.  We share two seats between the three of us so that the older woman across from us can put her feet up (as my friend says, “She’s worked hard her whole life, you know?”) The other two men in our cabin, traveling with her, are either husbands, brothers, or sons, it seems impossible to tell, but they are friendly and kind to us.  One asks how we find morocco, if we like it, and particularly if we find the people kind.  He seems relieved when we answer all these positively.

An hour or so in, the older woman’s cell phone goes off in a call to prayer, at the appointed hour.  Such a meeting of modernity and technology with tradition and religion!  A cell phone pre-programmed to give you your call to prayer on the hour, for busy Muslims on the go!

By the time we arrive in Tangier, the “pirate city” at the very northern tip of Morocco (we’re told we can see spain, but I cant claim to recognize which lump it might be on the horizon), it is already dusk, and we are starving.  And, incredibly, only a few people speak French here– mostly, the second language is Spanish because of it’s proximity.  We ask at a hanut in the Medina where we might find Tajine, and although everything nearby is already closed, a little boy leads us all around the medina to the spots he knows, looking for somewhere that might serve us.  He chats to us in French, English and Arabic as he runs, and we have to hustle to keep up.  “Do you go to school?” we ask him.  “Yes,” he responds, nodding seriously.  “I am a good man.”

After we find dinner, we are on our way home when the sky suddenly opens in a Moroccan rainy-season downpour.  We rush off the street and, soaking wet, take shelter in a bakery on the street.  The old men who work there laugh at us, and help us choose what we might buy to nibble on while we wait for the rain to stop.  We chat in Arabic-French-English (the new language of the country) and, as the rain finally starts to let up, he hands us each an extra cookie “for the road.”

When we finally make it back to our hostel we go up to the rooftop terrace and join a young Australian man who is sitting reading, his knees covered in a blanket.  He has spent the past 4 years teaching English in Japan, and now is traveling the world, deciding where he wants to work next.  He does not plan to move back to Australia, although he speaks of it fondly.  In this way he reminds me of my english-teacher friends here in Morocco, and reminds me that I—despite my insatiable travel bug— am not quite one of them.  I love my roots to be sunk deep in a soil where I have friends and family, and take as much joy from the home-coming of travel as I do from the adventure of setting out.

Regardless, we travelers swap stories on the roof late into the night, comparing and sharing and marveling like old sailors reliving wild storms.

Nora the Moroccan

11/7/14

People in Morocco love my name! With single time, “Nora?? That’s a Moroccan name!”  And then sometimes, “Are you from here?”  They tell me that it means “light” in Arabic, but not light like from a lamp, everyone has to explain.  Light from a star or from the sun.  What a wonderful gift to get to carry this name and this meaning around with me!

Tonight, at the Italian bar where you get free unlimited Tapas when you buy a bottle of wine (yes, really!) I hear it about a hundred times.  And I meet not only Moroccans but Belgians, Italians, British, French… it is one of my new favorite games to figure out “Why Morocco?”  I believe one could write a book with that title and never run out of different answers.

Morocco’s Moody Month

11/6/14

November in Morocco is Rainy Season, and when I arrived at the airport the sky was obliging this tradition.  Coming into the city that day, and as I explored today, I realized that “rainy season” does not necessarily mean rain all day every day.  It means blazing sunshine and then sudden downpour, an emotional and cosmic shift with no morning.  Sometimes, it means a whole day of delicious gray mist and clouds; sometimes, it means sunshine and rain both at once.  It means a whole new set of colors and smells… there seem to be just as many grays and silvers as there are shades of sunlight, and the bright colors of the tile work and the painted walls burst through the foggy days like Christmas lights in winter.  I love getting to see this, the moody month of Morocco, to follow its swings and see the familiar city with, quite literally, a new light.

Home Sweet Morocco!

11/5/14

Home sweet Morocco!  I will write more tomorrow but for now, suffice it to say, everything is the same.  And everything is different.  The city looks and feels familiar, but at the same time the season has changed.  My little home in the Kasbah (aka a giant castle on the ocean) is beautiful, small but lovely, with no hot water so I decide to use water heated on the stove for bucket showers, which strangely makes it feel right.  My bed is tucked away with white curtains that can be pulled back or closed so that it is like a little Berber tent, cozy and warm, with beautiful tile work from floor to ceiling and little carved areas in the wall like shrines where there are candles to be lit.  And, of course, our beautiful little terrace which looks out over the river, with sunrise and moonrise gracing us with a front-row performance.  This is a wonderful place to call home.